Haute couture, haute plaisir - last day

Saving the best for last, is what some people would say, considering that the last day of Paris Haute Couture shows was headlined by none other than A-list favourite and the master of female body illusions, Zuhair Murad. The Beirut-based designer sent down the runway an allegory of extravagance and gold, with delicately embellished gowns for the strong, self-confident and sensual woman not afraid of the pleasures of a little bit of luxury. With a Baroque resonance, the dresses were superb in their detailing. On one, a richly embroidered bodice dissolved into sequined arabesques on a nude silk tulle train. Others drew their origins from ancient Greece, with fluid panels of light-coloured chiffon and silk tulle, set off with gold or platinum embroideries.

Rad Hourani’s first official couture collection paid homage to his approach to unisex fashion with an almost religious procession of boys and girls going down the runway in androgynous looks highlighted in their simplicity by the basic colours of black and white. Geometric and structural, the show was a statement of the power of equality and modernity, with sleek pieces like sleeveless tuxedos and futuristically crisp coats and jackets. As the designer himself said, “It’s a language I’m very dedicated to, I think it’s something very important in our society. Unisex isn’t just a garment reference—it implies that age doesn’t exist, religion doest exist, and so on. There are no boundaries.” 

This week of couture was wrapped up in style by a display of Herve L. Leroux's creations. Leroux is the man credited for making curve-hugging bandage dresses a hit before there ever was Max Azria and the Herve Leger craze. Even if he has been absent from the fashion forefront for over a decade, Leroux made a comeback in style (excuse the pun), with an array of glamorous, old Hollywood-ish dresses in powerful shades of yellow, magenta, bronze and petrol. Elaborately draped from silk jersey, custom-made for Leroux in Italy, the gowns oozed simple elegance and hinted at a possible return to the big league for the French designer.