It’s the end of (another) fashion era. In a blow that
literally came out of thin air, luxury giant PPR has just announced that its
brand Balenciaga and designer Nicolas Ghesquiere are parting ways. A moment of silence for the genius who created these beauties (*sigh).
The decision was described as joint, but no word yet whether it was not more one-sided than that. Rumours about town do say that Ghesquiere may have
been unhappy with the discrepancy between how his grievances were being
answered and the unusual freedom enjoyed by Hedi Slimane over at sister-brand
YSL (I guess jealousy can happen even in the highest circles), but we should not always trust everything we hear. Two things are clear,
the first being that Ghesquiere had hinted as early as last year to his ideas
to move on. At his fall 2011 show, he told
Style.com that he is “very happy at Balenciaga. But I also want to work on my
own line. The ideal would be to do both things simultaneously”. The second
clear thing is that this will not happen.
Ghesquiere has been one of fashion’s darlings, with
collection after collection gathering acclaim and plenty of fans from the list of the
industry’s who’s who. Since taking on the role of designer for Balenciaga in
1997, his resolute modernity has pushed him to not only revive the brand, but
to literally reinvent it. Balenciaga’s key foundation was based on haute couture rigor
and sculptural shapes. Ghesquiere, on the other hand, brought about a geometric
and edgy sophistication that always left us longing for more. For the past 15
years, his name was so closely tied to the label that it was easy to assume
that the relationship could turn into the same kind of Lagerfeld-Chanel love
affair. Sadly, it was not meant to be.
Regardless of whose decision it was, leaving a brand that
you’ve reshaped with your own bare/ creative hands is hard. I remember Tom
Ford describing his leaving Gucci after 10 years as a divorce, not dissimilar
to losing a real lover. We now have to wait and see what is in the cards next
for Ghesquiere (I am very much rooting for his own line, which, given the
massive extent of creative freedom he’d enjoy, I am sure would blow our minds)
and, of course, who, if any, will be able to fill the master’s shoes at
Balenciaga.
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